Canine compulsive disorder gene identified in dogs; shares family with recently targeted gene for autism in humans

Canine compulsive disorder gene identified in dogs; shares family with recently targeted gene for autism in humans

Very Basic First Aid for Pets. Some Tips for the Pet-Owner.

Prevention is always better than cure! Know your pet, know how to care for it, know what to look out for and with reasonable diligence most accidents can be avoided. However, accidents will happen and then knowing what to do can often save you and your pet a lot of suffering and trauma. It could even save your pet's life. Most pet first aid is common sense and a basic understanding of your chosen species. Many of the fundamental principles of first aid for humans (St. John's, Red Cross, St. Andrew's etc.) apply also to pets, so do consider taking one of their excellent training courses. you will also feel less helpless in emergency situations involving people. Do keep a suitable first aid kit at home and in the car. In an emergency take a deep breath and DO NOT PANIC. Time is of the essence. The first thirty minutes after an incident is crucial to the survival of the victim. Assess the situation. Try to work out what has occurred. Do NOT in any circumstances put yourself in danger. First and most important (unless you are absolutely certain that you can handle the situation completely yourself) send someone to summon professional help, in most cases a vet. Give as much information as possible to the vet, thus allowing him or her to assess the seriousness of the situation. If you are alone, summon help yourself before you do anything else unless the patient is not breathing or has no pulse. More information on this situation is given in the section on RTA's. Unless absolutely vital do not move the pet. You may cause more damage. Do not give the animal food or water. Remember the ABC (airways, breathing, circulation) procedure. Do not lift or move the pet's head in any way that could allow bodily fluids, blood, vomit etc. to run back into the airway and risk blocking it. Thus preventing a potentially fatal escalation of the situation.

Do comfort the pet by gentle stroking and soothingly talking to it all the time.

Bleeding.

Cuts on the paw are one of the most common pet injuries. The treatment for bleeding is, however, much the same whichever part of the body is injured. Using a clean absorbent dressing (or improvise with a clean handkerchief, piece of sheet or some similar material) folded up into a pad apply firm pressure on the wound to stem the flow of blood. NEVER use that old favourite, cotton wool directly onto a wound. In our opinion cotton wool should not even be in your pets first aid kit. Arterial blood will usually be bright red and will come out in spurts. This is a life-threatening situation. Do NOT apply a tourniquet, but continue to put more and more layers on the absorbent pad whilst still pressing firmly until professional help arrives.

Burns.

Typical signs that a pet has burnt or scalded itself are swelling, redness, singed fur and even fur coming away from the body. Before attending to the victim ensure that the same accident cannot happen to you. For instance, if chewing through a cable carrying an electrical current has caused a burn be certain that the electricity supply has been turned off, preferably at the mains, before touching the pet. Saturate the injured area with clean cold water, preferably under a convenient cold-water tap or by using a showerhead if at all possible. In order to minimize the damage you will need to keep this up for at least 10 minutes and probably longer in order to ensure that the burn or scald is not continuing to damage the skin. NEVER apply oils or creams, as this will just increase the severity of the injury. Application of a light non-fluffy dressing (no pressure and definitely NOT cotton wool) soaked in cold water will also help. Do try to keep the animal calm until the vet arrives.


Choking.

Again your most likely patient will be a dog mainly because given the opportunity most dogs will attempt to eat almost anything. Do NOT allow your dog to play with anything, which due to its size is likely to get stuck in its mouth.

Should a dog start to retch and paw at its mouth, check for obvious signs of an obstruction. If it is possible to gently remove the object by flicking it forward and therefore out of the mouth, do so taking care not to get bitten in the process. Remember the pet will be in great distress and quite possible unable to control its natural reactions. The mouth will automatically close when the obstruction is removed so make sure that your fingers come out first! Flat nosed breeds such as bulldogs; boxers and pugs can also suffer choking fits, especially in hot weather when areas of the respiratory tract swell making it extremely difficult for the pet to breathe. Additionally an asthma attack causes similar problems with the possibility of the animal beginning to turn blue. All these situations require urgent veterinary attention. Again sooth and reassure the pet throughout the journey to the vet.

Collapse.

A heart attack, epileptic fit, diabetes, accidents, burns or exposure to extremes of temperature often brings on shock.

The ABC procedure (airways, breathing, circulation) must be carried out. Your purpose in this situation is to keep the pet alive until the vet arrives. Loosen any collar, open patient's mouth and gently pull the tongue forward to ensure that the airway is open. Feel for a pulse either at the inside of the thigh at the join between leg and torso or under the armpit. IF and ONLY if you can feel NO pulse start to gently massage the heart with the fingers of one hand. Do thus about once every second. Count out loud (a thousand and one, a thousand and two etc.). For very large dogs you may have to use two hands. Although this technique undoubtedly saves lives it is very DANGEROUS and great care must be taken to ensure that you do not damage the pet further. Only use this technique if you are ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the heart has stopped. If the pulse returns continue monitoring the pet (congratulate yourself later) keeping it quiet, warm and away from strong light until a more qualified hand than your own takes over.

Fitting.

Epilepsy and similar conditions are not uncommon in dogs and cats. A pet's first such fit is a traumatic experience for both animal and owner. Veterinary help must be obtained and suitable advice as to how to care for the pet should further fitting take place be heeded for the future.

Typical symptoms are drawn back lips, glazed eyes, foaming mouth and flailing limbs. Loosen the pet's collar, cover with a blanket and make it as comfortable as possible. Do not leave the pet until professional help arrives, always ensuring that the pet is unable to injure itself on adjacent stairs etc.

Heatstroke.

Never leave a dog (or other pet) in a car during hot weather. In the UK this is an offence for which you will almost certainly be prosecuted. However, dogs in particular can and will suffer grave problems if allowed or forced to indulge in too much sun without the provision of shelter, shade and drinking water. Both cats and dogs that sunbathe or go out in hot weather should have a high factor sunscreen applied to their noses and the pink tips of their ears to help prevent sunburn! The classic signs of heatstroke are panting, frothing of the mouth and eventually collapse. Try to notice the early warning signs and remove the pet from the sun into the shade well before the problem becomes serious.

Wipe the pet's mouth with a clean wet cloth and sponge down the entire body with cold water. Cover the patient with wet towels. Additionally improvise a fan and rapidly (without causing the pet to panic) cool it down until professional help arrives. NEVER throw buckets, cups etc. of cold water over it, as you will almost certainly send it into shock. All actions should be gentle and soothing.

Poisoning.

Pets can suffer poisoning in a variety of different ways involving many different common household substances in addition to venom from snakes, toads, insects etc. Paint, bleach, chemicals of varying types, weed kills, rat poison and many other dangerous substances claim pets lives every year. Typical symptoms of poisoning are breathing difficulties, orientation problems (loss of balance), pawing at the mouth, dribbling, convulsions and eventually collapse. Telephone your vet immediately. Tell him the substance (or likely substance) that has caused the problem and if at all possible take a sample with you (or better still the original container). Unless the vet has instructed you do NOT give the patient a drink (particularly not milk) or attempt to make the pet vomit. If the animal has been doused with a substance such as bleach or acid completely wash it with a weak soapy solution to reduce the risk of absorption through the skin. Keep washing until you are sure there are no traces left. Gently dry the pet either with a towel or gentle heat from a hairdryer. There is a high risk of shock so try to keep it calm and warm until you get veterinary assistance, which is absolutely necessary in these circumstances.

Road Traffic Accidents.

The Road Traffic Accident is most pet-owners personal nightmare and quite possibly one of the most traumatic situations that you are ever likely to find yourself in. As ever you MUST assess the situation first and do NOT put yourself at risk. You will be of no use whatsoever to your pet if you are also on your way to hospital!! Get assistance to stop or divert the traffic. Try to reassure the pet. Talk gently to it. BE CAREFUL, for even your own dog may well bite you. If the pet is showing signs of aggression but does NOT appear to have any breathing problems it is a wise move to, approaching from behind the head muzzle the patient with a bandage, scarf or something similar. Do not move the pet unless it is vital to its safety. If you are forced to use a blanket, overcoat or similar item as a stretcher or gently place a cat in a box or wrap in a blanket. The Airway, Breathing, Circulation routine is once again imperative in these situations. Should the airway be clear but you can hear or even feel air leaking out of a wound gently press a dampened pad to the wound to seal it thus reducing the risk of a collapsed lung. This is a very serious situation indeed. Do read all the other parts of the first aid notes as almost any of them can suddenly apply in a road traffic accident situation. In these circumstances the pet WILL suffer from shock and should be kept warm, quiet and reassured (talk to it gently) until a vet arrives.



Stings & Insect Bites.

Wasp or bee stings and snakebites etc. can be very serious injuries indeed to a pet. Often the victim will be allergic to the sting or bite and in need of urgent veterinarian treatment. Usually the first you know of this type of injury is a swelling and the obvious distress of the patient. Cooling a swelling caused by a bee sting with bicarbonate of soda will help, whereas a wasp sting will be better treated by bathing in vinegar. Obviously if the injury is caused (or could have been caused) by an insect or snakebite from a poisonous creature the administration of the appropriate antidote is of the utmost urgency. ANY swelling in the region of the throat requires immediate treatment or the consequences to the pet may prove to be grave.

Compare and Contrast different kinds of terriers

In the world of working terriers, there are but two roots – colored dogs from the north (Scotland), and white dogs from the south (England and Wales). The "Fell Terrier" is the original non-pedigree colored working dog of the north. From this gene pool has sprung the Welsh terrier, the Lakeland and the Border. Today's working Fell Terrier may be brown, black, red, or black-and-tan, and may be smooth, wire or broken coated. The dog may be called a Fell terrier or a "working Lakeland" or a Patterdale." From the south of England have come the fox-working dogs whose origins are the same as those of the Jack Russell. The smooth Fox Terrier, the Wire Fox Terrier, the Sealyham and (most recently), the Parsons Russell. The parsons is not to be confused with the Jack Russell which is comonly found on the working field today. The is a small, principally white-bodied, smooth or rough-coated terrier that originates in the sport of Fox Hunting. The name "Jack Russell" is now most commonly used to describe a working terrier.

The use of the word "toy" to describe small dogs that belong to a toy breed is redundant and also incorrect, however, some terriers do come in different sizes, such as yorkshire terrier , which comes in standard, miniature, and toy varieties). The other terriers that come under the toy variety are the Australian silky terrier, the English toy terrier, the Russian toy terrier, the toy fox terrier, and the toy Manchester terrier.

The bigger breeds of the terriers like the Airedale (hound cross terrier) breed to work the rivers with the hounds, the bedlington terrier (cross whippet terrier) breed to chase its prey, the Irish terrier breed for it’s gameness and agility when it came to vermin control. This is just to name a few large terriers which show the terrier characteristics with the working ability of the larger dog.

In conclusion when it comes to comparing terriers there is a vast contrast in temprement and character between each breed and each classification all be it working, toy or the bigger breeds they are all differerent. The working tpyes of terrier were and are still bred to be strong and hardy. They must be able to work alone without the humans help when they come across prey i.e fox, rabbit, hare or rats. Some are bred to work underground and to travel great distances to find and kill their prey. Were as the toy terrier was took on as the small companion terrier, too small for work so we as humans embraced them and continued bred them with a more desirable temprement, character and without that hunting instinct. The bigger breeds although majority where origanally bred for working they have some what gone out of favour. The bedlington can sometimes be seen out in the field but the Airedale and the Irish are now prodomantly for show and companionship these days.

What factors we might need to consider when in choosing a family dog

They’re a number of factors to consider when choosing a dog. The first factor we should all consider when buying a family dog is how much is it going to cost, not only have you got to look at the initial cost of buying the dog, you have to look at the long term cost. If you are buying a dog from a pup it will be with you for anything up to seventeen years. We are going to looking at buying food and treats for the dog, leads and collars which is an ongoing expense. Vets are a necessity but it is not like the NHS they will charge you, so we should be looking at insurance for the dog. (However we do have the PDSA, which is an excellent organisation for people that cannot afford normal vet bills). Dogs need constant stimulation or they can become destructive and bored, they need toys like balls, rubber rings, Kong’s, food balls these all cost money and may need replacing every so often. When we get our puppy or dog are we going to put it through socialisation classes or obedience classes these again cost and could be an on going expense. These are just general everyday expenses there are also things like grooming some dogs like some Springer spaniels, cockers spaniels and many other breeds with long hair will need regular grooming, dog walking as in professional dog walkers will have to be employed if you unable to walk the dog yourself, kennelling if you go away and the list goes on.


The next factor we should consider, where is the dog going to live. This may seem a small factor but it is a very important one, is the dog going to live inside the house or is it going to be kennelled outside. If it is going to live inside you need to have a designated area for its bed or cage. Never let the dog sleep on the bed in even in the bedroom. If it is to be kennelled outside then you need a secure kennel with a run big enough for the size of dog to stretch and walk around.

Some people do not take in to account when they buy a dog the time they take to look after. As a pup your dog will need to relieve itself every hour so at the beginning you need to be there for them. They need to be walking for a least an hour every night and a quick walk in the mornings. Training needs to be considered, you need to able to set aside 20 minutes a day and an hour a week if you are going to classes. Playtime is essential for a dog’s development so you need to spend some time just playing with them everyday. A dog will take up half or even three quarters of your spare time if you are working. If you have not got that time then you should not really consider buying a dog.

When choosing a dog for your family you should consider their size. As pups all dogs look cute and cuddly however fully grown it may be a completely different situation. If you live in a one-bedroom house or flat you should not consider a large breed of dog like a Great Dane you would be better with a Cavalier King Charles or a terrier size dog. If you have a large house with large gardens you can consider the larger breeds as a family dog.

The last thing to consider is what breed is right for you and are you going to have it from a pup or re-home an adult dog. All dogs are of different natures and have different temperaments. If you buy a dog as a Puppy and socialise it right it should not really make any difference what their initial temperament is, however you should carefully consider the nature of the dog if you are buying an adult. Some dogs naturally have an aversion to other dogs; some dogs are independent minded and not the easiest to train like a Beagle or a Husky. People with allergies should be careful when choosing a dog, as there are a lot of breeds that constantly shed hair. There are now new cross-breeds being bred especially for people with allergies. If you are going to rescue a dog you need to be careful you are not taking on one with behavioural problems. If there is any sign of problems, unless you are willing to work with that dog or you know the dogs back ground, you should not rescue it. You have got to consider if you have children the implications of a rescued home dog with limit available background information.

In conclusion there are a lot of factors to consider when looking at buying a family pet. To quote the PDSA “A dog is for life not just for Christmas”. If more people stopped and considered all these factors (cost, kennelling, time, and size of the dog and what type of breed to have) there would be fewer dogs being destroyed or being put into rescue centres.

What characteristics does a domestic dog share with its wild relatives?

Dr Robert K Wayne, canid evolutionary biologist and Geneticist at UC-Davis, USA, quotes that his studies on wolves and dogs quite clearly show that the domestic dog is an extremely close relative of the grey wolf. He states that they only differ by at most 0.2% of their mtDNA*. In comparison the grey wolf differs from its closest wild relative the Coyote by about 4% mtDNA* sequence. He goes on to say that in fact based on his recent genetic studies, the “Mammal Species of the World (1993)” published by American Society of Mammalogist and the Smithsonian Institute in Washington DC, reclassified the dog from Canis familiarise to Canis lupus . This text is the primary accepted reference on mammal species of the world. (Information gathered from “Of Wolves & Dogs: Dispelling the Myths by Kim Myles, FLA Director and Editor).

* (mitochondrial DNA sequence)

If we look at the physical appearance of a dog we can see some similarities. Some dogs look a lot more like their wild relatives; i.e. the Irish Wolfhound, Siberian husky and the Alaskan Malamute. Over many years of selective breeding, the physical

appearance of dogs has changed to suit its domesticated environment. In this time, the dog has developed into hundreds of breeds with a great degree of variation. For example, height to the shoulder ranges from just a few inches (such as the Chihuahua) to roughly three feet (such as the Irish Wolfhound), and colours range from white to black, with reds, greys (usually called blue), and browns occurring in a tremendous variation of patterns. If you look at the German Shepherd it looks like a larger version of the Coyote with its bushy tail that is tipped with black. Most coyotes are grey but some show rust or brown colouration like the German shepherd. Dogs like all predatory animals of the wild have their eye set to the front of their head. They share the same acute eyesight and hearing as the wolf, which is used for hunting. The wolf, coyote’s and also the fox are diurnal which means they can hunt during the day and at night; they prefer to hunt at dusk and dawn. The domestic dog is more active at these times as well spending the majority of the day resting.

The domestic dog shows also some of the instinctive behaviour associated with its wild relatives. One of the most prominent is the pack instinct. In the case of the grey wolf the pack follows a strict hierarchy to help maintain order. The Alpha wolf is usually female and rules the rest of the pack. The domestic dog when they enter our home follows this instinct; if you have more than one dog within the home this is more noticeable. They have their own way of sorting the hierarchy; they like order and stability within the pack and only challenge other members of the pack when they feel threatened. Dogs like its wild relatives are about 90% body language and 10% vocal. They greet each other by rubbing up against each other and smelling each other anal glans. To keep in touch with the pack a wolf and coyote will howl and whine; domestic dog dogs will do the same if separated from us. Dog will pick up on the body language and react accordingly, in the same way the wild relatives will react to certain situations that may threaten the pack. The dog loves to hunt; even if it is not a working dog like a spaniel, Labrador or a hound type dog it still has the same instinct. The domestic dog, like the coyote, is omnivorous. The domestic dog will eat as part of their diet; fruit, grass and vegetables along with some form of meat, were as the wolf is predominantly carnivorous eating a diet of large ungulates (hooved mammals), beaver, small mammals, domesticated animals and rubbish. The female dog shares the same gestation period as its wild relatives, carrying her young for about 9 weeks. The grey wolf and the coyote are the same. They also share the nesting instinct, this has some what been taken over by us building whelping boxes or areas for the female to give birth and look after her young. The instinct is to hide away and protect its young.

In conclusion the evidence shows that the domestic dog is not that dissimilar to its wild relatives. It is only the invention by the human that has created this diversity of shapes and sizes. It matters not the changing appearances of the dog the underlying genetic make up, characteristics and behaviour are similar to that of the wolf, coyote and fox.

Can We Change/Re-Train The Behaviour Of An Aggressive Dog?

It is important to remember that aggression is a normal occurrence for all species; it keeps them alive and safe in perceived dangerous situations. Every species has a specific way to avoid the aggression before it goes too far and becomes a “fight to the death.” There are many types of aggression with many different triggers, and it is important to recognise and differentiate between them. The different types of aggression are:


1. Dominance aggression – Dogs have evolved from wolves and exhibit the same social behaviour. This structure involves the leader being above all the other members if the pack. This status is maintained by dominant and submissive behaviour.

2. Fear Aggression – Sometimes referred to as defensive aggression. This is normally displayed when the dog feels threatened, punished, or even when someone or something approaches the dog in an unfriendly way.

3. Pain aggression – Something which you would normally see when your dog is in severe/acute pain.

4. Play aggression – Also known as “Playing Rough”. Normally shows itself while playing with the dog; they become over excited, jumping up, nipping and barking.

5. Possessive Aggression – The dog becomes aggressive over a particular item, i.e. food, toys, bones or their bed.

6. Territorial Aggression – Also known as “Protective aggression”. This type of aggression is directed towards a person or another animal which the dog does not consider as part of it’s own pack. It is also used to tell anyone or anything that they are crossing over the dog’s boundaries.

7. Food related aggression – This is quite common, it can stem from an early age, with the dog having to fight for the food whilst in the litter. It can also mean the dog has not had to share its’ food and also the dog could also have spent periods of time within it’s life without a regular food source.

8. Maternal Aggression – This is usually short term; only lasting a few weeks whilst the puppies are very young and unable to fend for themselves.

9. Lead Aggression – This basically means the dog will show aggression whilst on the lead towards people or other dogs, but is generally fine once it is let off the lead.

10. Idiopathic Aggression – This means that the aggression does not follow any of the above normal patterns.

With all these types of aggression things can become confusing, especially if you think that the dog suffers from more than one type of aggression at the same time, which is unusual but possible.

To manage any type of aggression successfully you need to know which one you are dealing with. Once identified you will know what action to take to deal with it, then re-train the behaviour of the dog. I will now discuss how to manage each of these defined aggression behaviours in turn:

Dominance Aggression – The way to manage this is to re-instate the most dominant family member back into the leadership role in relation to the dog. If the family member is not able to do this, then it must be the professional dog trainer to start with; this eliminates any risk of injury to the other family members as the training may involve major changes. In your initial assessment you need to identify the factors within the household that have given way to the dog taking hold of the leadership position, i.e.

• Being fed before the human family members.

• Being allowed to sit on the furniture.

• Being allowed to sleep upstairs on the owner’s bed.

• Being allowed to leave the room/house before them.

• Walking in front of the owner on the lead.

• Never being asked to sit/down/stand or other basic obedience commands.

The next step is to gradually eliminate and counter-condition the behaviour by using treat-based or lure-reward as a motivation to modify the dog’s behaviour.

Fear Aggression – This is best managed by using gradual exposure techniques; this involves de-sensitisation of the particular things the dog is fearful of. It is important to remember to replace the dogs fear response with another response; like anticipation of a food treat or play. Identify the fear that the dog has and take the appropriate steps to control them; Obedience training and positive re-enforcement. Use a muzzle or head harness if necessary to avoid any injury to the dog or the owner.

Pain Aggression – This depends on the individual situation, i.e. acute pain caused by an accident or chronic pain caused by a long term medical condition. In either of these situations establish where the pain is originating, avoid touching this area if possible and seek medical assistance to manage it.

Play Aggression – This can be managed by obedience training and exercise. The more exercise the dog receives the less energy it has to focus on undesirable behaviour. Long walks and games, including fetch, two to three times a day should be a part of your re-training program. It is also advisable to contact a local professional dog trainer, and book into a class where the dog will learn to play in a controlled environment, and gentle manner.

Possessive Aggression – This can be managed by a simple verbal correction, i.e. “Leave” if it is repeated consistently. You need to identify the situations that aggression might occur and avoid them until the dog understands why he/or she is being verbally corrected. It is advisable in many cases if the aggression is severe to contact a dog trainer/behaviourist to help you in the early stages.

Territorial Aggression – This can effectively be managed and controlled with firm commands and appropriate reward-based training. A bark-activated citronella spray collar is an effective tool, or a simple shaker bottle filled with stones also, used at the right time, can be very effective. This problem is best managed by de-sensitisation and by watching the behaviour of the dog, and counteracting it before the situation arises.

Food Aggression – This is one type of aggression you have to be very careful with during re-training. One way is to use a kong toy, or biscuit ball when feeding the dog; this will stop the dog from rushing it’s food, and being aggressive over it’s bowl. Feeding the dog by hand using dry food, gets the dog used to it handling it’s food. Another way is to put your dogs food in a bowl, and leaving your hand in there while the dog eats; do not move your hand until the dog is finished. A professional dog trainer should be the only person to do this, and even then they need to be sure the dog will accept them.

Maternal Aggression – This will only occur shortly after the bitch has given birth. It is best not to handle the pups in the early stages to minimise the chances of aggression. A well trained bitch, which has been bred before, will allow a trusted member of the family unit to handle the pups after the first few days. If it’s the dog’s first litter it would be wise to leave the pups alone for a little longer.

Lead Aggression – This can be managed in a few different ways, depending on the severity of the aggression. The first way is to use treats or a toy to attract the dogs attention when encountering a situation. Another option is to use a shaker bottle, or water bottle to gain the dog’s attention, enabling you to take control of the situation. Because this type of aggression is a lack of socialisation at a young age, another way to manage it is to gently, in a controlled manner, walk towards the dog or person, and allow the dog to interact. This should only be done if the dog is in the early stages of lead aggression, and not if the dog is showing signs of full blown aggression, i.e teeth bared and hackles up.

Idiopathic Aggression – Fortunately, few dogs are diagnosed with this type of aggression. Incidences that do happen are sudden and seemingly unprovoked. They are vicious and sometimes fatal. Research described by Dr Bonnie Beaver in 1980*, suggests that dogs affected exhibit more of a wild animal behaviour, rather than a domestic dog behaviour. There is no known way to manage this type of aggression; other than have the dog on the lead at all times and it should be muzzled to avoid injury to the general public.

In conclusion, to answer the question “Can we change/re-train the behaviour of an aggressive dog?” in most cases the answer is yes; by pinpointing what triggers it, and what type of aggression it is. Aggression managed correctly and controlled in the proper manner can allow the family pet to live out a normal life within the family structure.

Dominant Behaviour In Dogs

Dominant dogs are canines that are natural pack leaders. Dominance is not the same as aggression, however many dominant dogs are also aggressive. There are dominant dogs in almost any breed and typically intact males and intact females tend to be more dominant in nature. Some dominance is hormonally driven, especially in intact female and males where they will become more dominant when breeding and then less dominant during other parts of the reproductive cycle. Dominant breeds include both small or large dogs but they all have the characteristics of wanting to control what is going on.


In the wild canine groups a dominant male or female rarely has to become aggressive, rather the other submissive or subordinate dogs realize they risk injury by challenging the dominant dog. Dominance is often more of a bluff in domestic dogs with a lot of growling, pacing and raised hackles all that is needed to assert that they are the top dog with other canine and non-canine pets. However if a dominant dog is challenged either by another dog or a person they will resort to aggression, often very quickly.

Unfortunately a dominant dog doesn't just try to control or boss around the pets in the house, he or she will also attempt to control the humans. Dominant dogs aren't doing this because they crave power or control; they only exercise this type of behaviour because the humans in the house aren't. Dominant dogs that are well trained and socialized are happy and content knowing that the people are in charge and are able to keep the pack together.

Every puppy will go through a phase in their development where they test the hierarchy in the household. Think of this stage, usually occurring at about the six to eight month mark, as the time when the puppy is pushing the envelope with regards to who is the boss. If, during this time, the humans in the household are firm, consistent and positive in their training and expectations, the puppy will settle in to be a good pack member within the family. If, however, the people let the puppy get away with things, reward dominant or challenging behaviour or simply give commands and don't follow through if the dog does or doesn't respond, the puppy begins to see his or herself as the boss. Once this happens your dog actually becomes the leader in the household, at least in the dog's eyes.

Many toy and small dogs exhibit very dominant behaviour towards the people in their family. This is often because during the critical period between six months and a year the puppy was not trained or was spoiled or even rewarded for dominant behaviour. Once this pattern has been established it is difficult but not impossible to retrain and restructure the family hierarchy.

Dominant dogs will definitely benefit from working with a professional trainer. It is essential that the humans also learn how to be the leaders in the family with regard to the dog. Trainers can help but so can regular, routine obedience work, consistent and routine training activities and lots of time spent with the dog.